I’ve Unlocked Brunch

Back in time: Chicago, November 2011. The Publican. Sunday Brunch.

Bloody Mary / Side Cars / Coffee

This is a popular spot in Fulton Market where they ring a bell every time a patron buys the bartenders a six-pack. A ton of work went into designing the interior of this place and it shows. Feats of brute strength go into the food –

Pork Rinds / Mimosa
Ricotta Pumpkin Walnut Bread / Figs / Mint
Sirloin Steak / Fennel / Apple / Truffle / Knife
Duck Hash / Eggs

While enjoying this meal with my buddy, Sarah, a little restaurant back home in Portland placed the final touches on their own well designed space and banging food executions.

Enter The Woodsman Tavern – It’s safe to say these two restaurants are defined by similarities as well as differences, you can’t ring a bell and buy the bartender a six-pack (or can you?!) but there is a singularity of experience that allows these restaurants to bro down with one another from a sizable geographic distance.

Stumptown Cold Brew on the Gun

The Woodsman is the brain child of  Stumptown Coffee founder, Duane. I have no doubt he spent some time in The Publican envisioning his final product.

Bottle Aged Bloody Mary / No Side Car

These pictures are from 4 visits to The Woodsman because, unlike The Publican, I can walk there. It’s dangerous. I went to their very first brunch service and it’s only improved over time. However, the Bloody Mary once had sherry in the mix. It think this changed recently? Bring back the sherry.

Biscuit / Country Ham / Eggs / Kale

My brunch friends always order this dish and the ham is typically from Johnson Country, TN. After sampling a biscuit once or twice I can attest that The Woodsman does not serve a Yankee’s biscuit. Nice work.

I usually order this:

Fanny Bay / Fresh Horseradish / Champagne Mignonette

Or this,

Oven Pancake / Smoked Meyer Lemon Marmalade / House Ricotta / some kind of nut
Half Grapefruit / Burnt Honey

The tall drink in the background? That’s a Michelada with Sangrita, Lime Juice, Mezcal, Beer, and Spicy Salt. Be careful! Tread lightly! You have a whole day ahead of you!

Best Buds / Awwww

But really, truly, both are great places to be. I also have to mention how great the service at The Woodsman is – it’s really good, which is important for a place slinging oysters for $16 a half-dozen! Makes it worth it!

They also have fun:

Celebrating Tony Iommi's birthday. Sabbath on the Sabbath.

 

Menudo Colorado

There’s a little place on East Colfax in Denver that’s trapped in my brain and when I say trapped I mean like a vice grip that will not let go. It’s Sunday morning and I’m driving a rental, 5 feet of snow crunches on the ground. I’m the type of thirsty that only happens when you’ve slept in the scorching forced air heat of a low budget motel and it’s -9 degrees outside. At the 10:00 hour the Sun is performing madly, scattering photons on every snowy surface. I want a taco and I know I need to find an establishment with a plowed parking lot. A cleared oasis showing signs of life enters my windshield.
The TacoMex Trifecta
You can order broadly here, since it’s Sunday and they have a weathered paper sign taped to the glass entrance that states “Menudo $4.99.”
It’s typical for Menudo to be made only on the weekends, created by honored family recipes that often gain competitive momentum. If your going to go for a steaming spicy bowl of tripa shoot for a Sunday because (just like everything) menudo really shines after it is reheated a few times. I like to adopt authoritarian views on Menudo for dramatic effect, in truth, this is the first time I’d ever tried the dish. There are no experts here.
I only miss you on days that end in Y

On Sunday mornings I wake up and I want to be back in the green plastic booths at TacoMex assuring the waitress who delivers the menudo that she has the right table, she shakes her head and returns to the kitchen with my food. A few moments later a new waitress arrives with the same tray, smiles broadly and releases the feast. This makes me question how many gringas in Denver visit Tacomex for menudo. They are all missing out.

In the background you can see two tacos, one pastor, one lengua, both excellent. But the menudo, with the perfectly cooked hominy, balanced garlic and cilantro, garnish of dried oregano, lime, and onion creates one of those food experiences where an already sunny sky is suddenly gleaming and wide. I keep the business card for TacoMex in my wallet and on some Sunday mornings I take it out and simply turn it over in my hands.