My Ice Program

In the later days of my 32nd year strange things were afoot, or rather afloat. Rocky times involving horrible news of cancer and chemo, an irreparably broken relationship that  slogged its way to the lion’s share of a decade, work stress, life mess, odd decisions. The image and experience that defined this time period was ICE, the frozen stuff, a large polar lake filled with  rupturing ice – loud breaks and fissures, noisy and scary, distracting and concerning. Every morning felt more treacherous, it was not a good time and that is a significant understatement. A good friend in Denver offered some advice on my predicament and metaphor – find the largest block of ice and hold on. So I held on, hugging a frozen brick the size of an inner-tube until I was numb and blue.

A few days after my birthday I slept through the night for the first time in months and upon waking I noticed the ice had abated, I was floating in very cold waters but it was certainly an improvement. Perhaps I cleared the tail end of my Saturn Rising. Regardless, in the genius words of Cheryl Strayed “Gut Yourself. Start There.” I’m using the thaw as a starting point, navigating the frigid waters. Every day feels like an experiment in embarrassment and humility but I’m warming up.

The point to all of this, if there is one, is that ice (in a non-metaphorical sense) is an obsession of mine. While surviving the menace emotionally, I developed a passion for it physically. This fixation has led me to purchase many laughable items: a large plastic bin for freezing slabs, an ice pick, multiple silicone cube trays, a Lewis Bag, a wooden carpenters mallet. It’s surprising I didn’t end up with a Kold-Draft Ice Butler but I am limited by the space in my kitchen.

sweet potato with orange, tequila, and a smoked paprika ice cube
concord grapes, banks rum, ruby port

These were the drinks that launched My Ice Program, two of a 10 cocktail and appetizer frenzy at Aviary in Chicago. The full report never made it to print, the photos are dark and progressively fuzzy from the first to the last. Also, I lost my notes on the experience in the Great Wallet Incident of 2012.

I’ve had a standing invitation to try a restaurant with an Ice Program, significantly more sane than my own, complete with a Clinebell. Riffle cuts the ice after the harvest with power tools forming structures for drinkables and edibles. I intended to sit at the bar but ended up at the Raw Bar with a full view of the kitchen.

Icey Friends
gin, lime, celery, absinthe, salt, full runner ice tower
sea urchin, quail egg, shot

This shooter is an experience of deceptive simplicity; two gifts cracked from their shells joined in a brine. Absolutely great. I’ll never quit you, uni.

beet cured salmon carpaccio, bacon aioli, peanuts

I should have tried a different raw offer, not that this wasn’t good, it was, but they were sending it out all over the restaurant. Made me feel like my norm was showing.

kumamotos, one fig, one bloody mary, pounded ice
let’s check-in on the collins
halibut cheeks, fennel puree, parsnip chips

Snow-white barn doors perfectly prepared, I’ve had issues with parsnip chips in the past but these were still a vegetable and complemented the sweetness of the fish.

summer stuffing

This was a pleasant decision ordered on a whim. Zucchini, bread, pesto, tomatoes. An excellent side that will be attempted in my kitchen within the week.

how we doin’?
Room D – rye, becherovka, quinine, citrus

My Drink, I’ve found you at last. Becherovka and I have a history that includes sunny parks and statues in the Vinohrady neighborhood of Prague. Mail ordered bottles for birthdays before it was available in the states:

large quantities

I’ve only been fond of rye for the past two years-ish but they are a tremendous pairing. The Room D cocktail is also a melting pot of spirits:

Pennsylvania, Karlovy Vary, Peru
The Freeze and Thaw

it’s only a bargain if you want it

I have one of those new friends where entire conversations consist of “WHY are you so awesome?!” It reminds me that there is nothing better than friends, nothing finer than well humoured people who laugh at you and with you. Friends who scream at you and remain funny. I’m into it.

A few weeks ago after eating trout,  oysters, and ham while dying of laughter we went to the market next door and the man behind the counter pulled a serious Hard Sell and I walked out with a $6.50 bag of pasta and a $7.00  JAR OF TOMATO SAUCE.

Parcels of Refinement or Stupidity?

Trofie is a handmade pasta and the package suggests boiling 5 liters  of water slowly, adding a pinch of salt and then stirring with a wooden spoon. I decided to follow these instructions:

The Boil

I boiled the pasta to just over 12 minutes. Diced up a garlic clove and let it sweat over low heat, threw the pasta in there, added about two tablespoons of ricotta, and then added the astronomically priced pasta sauce.

Garlic Lady Fights The Patriarchy

Garlic and I have an interesting relationship because I know I  love garlic and food tastes  great to me if there is garlic involved but that is  the limit of my ability to explain the appeal.  My vocabulary dulls when I try to describe the textural and olfactory properties of garlic flavors and I would not pass a blind taste test involving this wondrous Allium Sativum. Actually, many things I am extremely fond of transcend my description of their appeal so garlic fits right in.

only hits, no misses

I enjoyed this meal with a really cheap glass of Chardonnay to even the playing field. My dinner soundtrack included side A of a current favorite record and this pasta was well worth the sticker shock, especially considering it fed me for four meals.

Next Up: Penultimate Pimento Cocktails

Sorry I Missed Your Birthday.

This little blog turned 6 years old at the beginning of May. Celebrations are great excuses. Today I spent the morning in ADA accommodation meetings which is really not a horrible way to spend a Saturday. After work I took the bus to the Pearl District, the ninth circle of hell, and went shopping at Anthropologie where I always feel like Theseus, having to clutch and follow a rope to insure finding ones way out of the labyrinth. Oven and Shaker is a few blocks over so the blog and I decided to Happy Hour.

Pepper Smash #2 -mint, Aquavit, lime juice , maple syrup, yellow bell pepper juice ;

Let’s talk ice, it’s important. This is nicely crafted and surely frozen in-house but I found myself having to hold back the cubes so they wouldn’t knock out my front teeth. I would like to drink this in a taller glass, that’s all. Same drink, different vessel. Due to the kick of mint that brings out the sweetness of the pepper I would definitely drink this again. Krogstad’s Aquavit always has nice things to say.

radicchio, parmigiano, rosemary-sage croutons,

Nobody will ever shut up about this salad. It’s served at Nostrana, it actually belongs to her, and it blends bitter, creamy, earthy so perfectly.

Fava shoots, chilli-onion jam, pecorino, green olives

Seasonal selection pie and the fava shoots are verbena-y and green tasting even after a solid char, mild spice, top excellent cheese that did not overwhelm with salt leaving most of the pie’s salinity to the olives.

When I walked to this restaurant I was in an excellent mood; wind in my hair, life at my feet, marveling at the ideal of dignity and how maybe, just maybe, it’s a replenishing well that can sustain good fortune through multiple perils and trials. After entering Oven and Shaker I realized I’d walked through NW with my fly down. It was around the time this pizza showed up that I started to feel a bit better about myself.

Dessert

True test of any cocktail program is their Old Fashioned. This nailed it, great pour, vintage vibe garnish. Ungh.

Service here is aces, really accommodating boarding on rewarding. My waiter helped me qualify the logistics concerning the BEST way for him to package my leftovers so that they fit into my shopping bag without turning my clothes into pizza.

Cheers! Sorry I missed your birthday.