back to wonderland 

Occurred to me this past week that this food diary has become a repository for my pictures of mollusks; which I am fine with, for they simply cannot be celebrated enough.


Henry’s Old Fashioned with four roses single because I was in a mood.


St. Helen’s sheep (Adna, WA) with pickled raisins. Mustard seeds were added whole to the brine, syrupy with just the right texture to play with the cheese.

Another collection with a wonderful face: barron point, baywater sweets, block h, penn cove selects — mignonette de Campari.
 salmon gravlax: pickled spring onion, labneh, clove, bay leaf. I’m fairly hesitant when it comes to clove but this worked to impart a slight musty turn which added complexity to the labneh.


sea wolf bakery

A final round of henderson inlet and blue pools.

the walrus and the carpenter

4743 Ballard Ave NW

Seattle, WA 98107

feast day

To celebrate the Feast Day of Saint Joan of Arc I dined and drank the tasting menu at Canlis in Seattle. A place where old things are made new.

There is a pianist in the lounge who plays lovely and contemporary standards like Coolio’s “Gangsta’s Paradise” and Sia’s “Chandelier”.

I started with a pre-dinner cocktail called Lusca – Plantation 3 Star rum, Yellow Chartreuse, lemon, orange, maple syrup. It’s like a Spanish Monk on ‘roids.

An amuse trio featuring potato, parsnip, foie, radish, and pea shoots in no particular order. The pairing was a 10-degree tin-brewed sake.

Tartare on some kind of crisp, the flavors of melon and wild flowers.

Canlis uses trucker seating, a party of two is seated side-by-side instead of across from one another. It is the best seating, and I gladly contorted myself to snap a pic of my date’s iced tea service. 

This is the infamous Canlis salad, which is romaine and mint and tomatoes covered by a Parmesan crisp.

You crack the crisp and mix it all up in the salad. It’s super fun for a salad.

The salads were paired with a Provence rosé. I meant to keep track of all these vintages but my notes are mostly filled with thoughts on the meaning of “varnish” and what songs the pianist was playing. I think this is the 2013 German Riesling they paired with the Sockeye, we may never know.

Sockeye salmon with yogurt and sea beans.

A monster serving of foie.

And this strange nugget is the Canlis Shrimp, heated with dry vermouth and garlic.

Squab with puffed rice, charred cornichons, and squashes. The squash was pureed with umeboshi which gave the dish a wonderful fermented flavor.

I sadly fell behind on my wine but the squab was paired with a HUGE Australian Cabernet, my favorite pairing of the night. Below is the wagyu entree, with parsnips, basil and asparagus. 

The sweet silence of an emptying establishment.

Pineapple sorbet, white chocolate handkerchief, sugared corn, Douglas Fir foam, malted macadamia crunch. This was my dessert appetizer, paired with an exclusive Austrian bernalseace blend which tasted beautifully of dried stone fruits. My notes include an odd mention of “Lily Pulitzer??” I think I was trying to make a joke about exclusivity and corn.

The aforementioned Austrian wonder. 

Coffee.

Messages written in chocolate, a deconstructed crème brûlée.

A house-made negroni macaroon and a lime macaroon which I rediscovered at the bottom of my purse the next morning.

guacamole boris karloff

Earlier this week the following recipe was tweeted, tumblred, messageboarded, mocked, revered, and discussed:

speaking to all mortals from beyond the grave
speaking to all mortals from beyond the grave

According to this unsourced and undated article Mr. Pratt had a fondness for the spice of life: the zip of chili, the slick of avocado. I kept my eye out for someone, anyone, who would build the monster and bring this recipe to life. I found one individual who stocked up on the ingredients but forgot the Sherry, he never reported back…

I’d like to welcome Boris Karloff to my food diary. Let’s do this right.

The brain you stole, Fritz. Think of it. The brain of a dead man waiting to live again in a body I made with my own hands!
The brain you stole, Fritz. Think of it. The brain of a dead man waiting to live again in a body I made with my own hands!

The elephant in this recipe is Sherry, a white grape extraction. Fortified hooch. According to the modern internet very few of you know what Sherry is, you’ve never tried it and you are damn near horrified to see it listed among guacamole ingredients.

Have a heart. Sherry is delicious.

A bad Sherry (I won’t name names) is really sweet and sort of tastes like a caramel coated peanut shell. A decent Sherry tastes like almonds and cherry blossoms. I consider Hartley and Gibson’s Amontillado a decent Sherry. A GREAT Sherry (Valdespino) tastes like sunshine and marconas, like smiling at your true love in the middle of a crowded street in Seville.

I knew Boris was up to something really special with the Sherry inclusion.

the mash
the monster mash
a fine chop on the tomato
a fine chop on the tomato
minced onion
minced onion
a tablespoon of this
a tablespoon of this
a tablespoon of that
a tablespoon of that
two tablespoons of this glorious hue
this glorious hue
The brain which was stolen from my laboratory was a *criminal* brain.
The brain which was stolen from my laboratory was a *criminal* brain.

Here’s what happens; the resulting “sauce” is super shiny, very lovely to behold. The Sherry brings out a pronounced nutty (think Macadamia) oily-ness from the avocado. I refuse to lie to you, the booze in this dish is evident on the palate…it’s a British recipe, what in the bloody hell do you want from me?

Yet there is a delicate balance to Boris’s creation that you will enjoy. Tastes like two feet in a split across time and culture. You have to try this for yourself.

I wasn’t content with dipping corn chips into this Guac. I felt overwhelmed with the desire to find a more noble application so I walked to Torres De Morelos on 31st & Powell, home of the best $1.50 tacos in Portland, and treated Boris’ special concoction to a dutifully spicy end.

You have created a monster, and it will destroy you!
(one lengua, one chorizo)
You have created a monster, and it will destroy you!

Up Next: I’m working on a long thing about what baseball and canned seafood have in common.